The good news is that you really don't need the depth of field marks because every digital camera features a big display that lets you see the photo you just took, and you can zoom the image to check focus at any point. Those old lenses had a set of curved lines that showed depth of field at different focal lengths as the zoom/focus ring moved, but newer designs don't allow for that. Zoom lenses tend not to have them at all, perhaps in part because the push-to-zoom design that was so common back then is hardly seen at all now. For example, the Canon EF 50mm f/1.4 has a set of marks for f/22, but that's it. You can still find some of those marks on some Canon and third party lenses today, but there are fewer of them if they're there at all. It was really just a set of symmetrical marks, one on each side of the focus distance indicator line, for each of several aperture settings. The DoF indicator was a feature found on most, if not all, SLR lenses back then. In particular, I would like a depth of field indicator that shows the depth of field in feet. Digital photography can be just as much fun as it was, but you should be prepared for some differences. But today's cameras have more and different features. When Canon introduced the AE-1 Program in 1976, it was very advanced and made it a lot easier to take correctly exposed photos. It's going to be a very apples and oranges kind of comparison. I would like to purchase my first DSLR camera with similar features and experience to my AE1 Canon film camera. When do the differences between APS-C and full frame sensors matter, and why?.What do I need to consider to choose between dSLR, mirrorless, or a compact as my first "serious" camera?.focal length, and the view in the viewfinder will be more similar to what you're used to with a film SLR. OTOH, unlike Olympus or Fujifilm digital cameras, you also have the choice of a full-frame sensor, which is a sensor that's the same size as a frame of 35mm film, so things like DoF and FoV vs. And chances are good you could use your lenses with an adapter on these mounts.īut if you want something that feels and operates, menu-like, like your old Canon, than a Canon dSLR might be better, but you'd have to swap to EOS-mount lenses. For a similar-sized body, something like a Fujifilm XT model might work, or the Olympus E-M series. dSLRs are much larger than their manual film counterparts, because of features like autofocus and autoexposure. If you want a dSLR or other interchangeable-lens body that's similar in feel-in-the-hands to your AE-1, chances are good you'll have to go with a mirrorless body. What you need to focus on is what is your budget for this dSLR, what kind of performance do you want? And what format of sensor will deliver for you? I don't think you're going to find another dSLR that has exactly what you're envisioning. Not DoF scale focusing and split-circle focus screens. These days, manual focus aids include liveview features, like focus peaking and magnification. And DoF preview buttons can help you estimate what the DoF is, as well as possibly a DoF scale in the viewfinder. And, well, you've got autofocus, which tends to be pretty accurate. A DoF scale changes with focal length, and autofocus has made the focus "throw" of a lens much much smaller than in manual focus days, so using a DoF scale with any precision with manual focus is problematic. DoF scales on lenses is pretty much of thing of the past (see: Why did manufacturers stop including DOF scales on lenses?), mostly due to the fact that zoom lenses and autofocus are ubiquitous and commonly used.
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